Peruvian cuisine, a nexus of Andean, Japanese, and Chinese flavors, is seen through the lens of José Andrés—and distilled into small plates—at this loud, colorful dining room. The kitchen handles all facets of the cuisine with ease. There may be no better rendition of har gao (translucent-skinned shrimp dumplings) in the area, and ceviches are small masterpieces. Build up to at least one bigger finish, whether a veggie-packed fried rice, a classic lomo saltado, or the plump Maestro Wong shrimp, glazed in a hauntingly complex, black-bean-tinted sauce. Moderate.
Also great: Lamb pot stickers; steamed buns with pork belly; king-salmon ceviche and tiradito; condensed-milk custard with passionfruit.