Mirabelle is a comeback story. The dining room’s arrival downtown heralded a return for former Palena and White House chef Frank Ruta, and it resurrected a formal breed of dining that seemed long lost (yes, that’s a dessert cart making the rounds). The kitchen pays homage to the French masters, presenting dishes that would make Escoffier proud—china plates of rabbit-and-foie-gras terrine, say, or guinea hen lacquered in juniper sauce. The story isn’t without flaws—service can be dismissive, while some creative whims fall flat. Pastry star Aggie Chin’s sweets always send diners off with a smile, though. Very expensive.
Also great: Foie gras in consommé; scallop-and-sea-urchin navarin; strip loin with bordelaise; “L’Opéra” cake.