These days, Rose’s isn’t quite the total joy ride it use to be. Of late, we’ve encountered overcooked pastas and dishes that were too garlicky or too sweet or just plain not thought through. But thrills are still to be found at Aaron Silverman’s ever-welcoming dining room, which on some nights continues to draw an epic line. A whole grilled dorade is a subtle stunner with hints of tarragon and beurre noisette, and the kitchen lightens up Vietnamese shrimp toast with house-made brioche and coconut-shrimp mousse. Expensive.
Also great: Lychee-and-pork salad; trenette pasta with clams; stracciatella-with-mint ice cream.