Some of the most coveted seats in Washington are at the omakase counter inside this sushi institution. (To snag them, you have to e-mail the place. A lot.) But once you’re there, the night—and the attention of a dedicated sushi chef—is yours. The evening begins with a procession of fascinating small plates (fugu aspic with pickled chrysanthemum, say) and builds to a presentation of wooden boxes filled with jewel-like arrays of fish. Pick however many you want, then watch them get slivered into nigiri and sashimi. Our chef’s recommendations led to the evening’s best bites—we never want to eat eel anywhere else. Very expensive.
Also great: Deep-sea red crab with jalapeño and soy; A5 Wagyu with sea urchin; octopus.