When was the last time you were offered a sorbet palate cleanser? Or encountered a “complete meal,” where an entrée comes with appetizer, salad, and dessert? Chez François conjures the Eisenhower era on the plate, too, tending the flame on relics such as Châteaubriand and tournedos of beef with béarnaise sauce. Minimalists and those who break out in hives at the sight of a doily might not go for it, but we say: Don’t ever change. Downstairs is the more low-key (and à la carte) Jacques’ Brasserie. Moderate to very expensive.
Also great: foie gras with Sauternes; Alsatian tart; Roquefort salad; lobster with Sauternes; Grand Marnier soufflé.