Restaurateurs Fabio and Maria Trabocchi bill their Van Ness pasta house as a “neighborhood” joint, and indeed the red-and-white-striped dining room is a welcome addition to an area starved for decent restaurants. But the place also has enough Trabocchian indulgences (truffles, rare reserve wines) to be a draw across the city. The menu asks, “Which pasta are you?” It’s hard to imagine anyone who’s not the spaghetti carbonara with its thick, chewy noodles and oozing egg. But if you’re not sure, a tasting with three family-style plates for $68 is a great way to sample things. Expensive.
Also great: Grilled calamari; polenta; spinach tonnarelli with walnuts; squid-ink-and-paprika cannelloni; soft-serve gelato; tiramisu panna cotta.