When food critics describe a dream restaurant, it’s often a place like this Mediterranean-leaning spot—small and lovely, with a great bar; highly ambitious but not hugely expensive; service that’s friendly and relaxed but also seamless and keenly knowledgeable. Though it’s tough to pass up the famed lamb ribs, chef Jon Sybert keeps the new hits coming, with an eye toward strangely delicious bedfellows. Who knewstracciatella cheese could pair so beautifully with Brussels sprouts and fermented cabbage? Or that ’80s-throwback pasta primavera could taste so fresh thanks to briny pops of trout roe? Expensive.
Also great: Salt-cod croquettes; bialy with trout roe, duck egg, and crème fraîche; pasta puttanesca with candied olives; whole stuffed porgy; rosemary cake.