Word is out about this northern Thai restaurant tucked inside a nondescript sushi joint. No matter—Jeeraporn Poksupthong’s cooking still feels like a discovery. You won’t find Americanized fare such as drunken noodles, though those who are taking their first dip into pungent, spicy Esaan cooking can still find mild dishes such as fried chicken with garlicky rice. We say throw caution aside and try a chili-laced salad of grilled mushrooms or an herbal green curry brimming with tender house-made fish balls. Inexpensive.
Also Great: Chicken-stuffed tapioca balls; pork picnic; vermicelli with peanut sauce; coconut idli.