Crowds line up an hour or more for a chance to sit in a room so tight it feels as if you’re sharing a bus with the kitchen crew. For good reason: Chef Tom Cunanan’s nouveau Filipino joint is still turning out some of the most transportive cooking around. The menu has been trimmed down since the restaurant’s 2015 debut, but dishes change frequently and many portions are made for two. Cunanan never shies away from bitter, sour, and funky flavors. We hardly wanted to share a clay pot of Cunanan’s nontraditional take on chicken adobo with coconut milk and turmeric. “Embrace the turmeric—feel good,” our server said. Done. Moderate.
Also great: Heirloom-rice salad with tamarind vinaigrette; scallop kinilaw; prawns with crab fat; fried chicken; pork sausages with fried egg and garlic fried rice.