The menu may read like any other Italian restaurant’s, but nearly every dish at this Bryan Voltaggio spot comes with a surprise. Expecting bread and olive oil to start your meal? Here, complimentary slices of warm focaccia come with ricotta and whipped mortadella. Think you know what fettuccine carbonara looks like? Here, noodles studded with lardons and roasted pearl onions are topped with an egg-yolk espuma—mix it all together for a creamy sauce. Even the cannoli aren’t really cannoli but a sweet ricotta dip with a squiggle of dark chocolate and wonton-like chips. Moderate.
Also great: Kale Caesar; lasagna with lamb Bolognese; cioppino.