Cheap Eats 2018: Bamian

The green sauce is key. The spicy, tart blend of jalapeño, cilantro, garlic, lemon, and spices works on just about everything—chicken-thigh kebabs; the comforting mashed-potato-and-leek-filled pastry known as bowlanee; and the stellar qabili palow,a heap of spiced rice, carrots, raisins, and hunks of lamb on the bone. About the only thing we don’t drizzle it on is mantu,savory pockets filled with beef and finished with yogurt and a tomato-lentil sauce. Also good: Vegetable platter; lamb or chicken carrayee; firnee (a sweet custard).

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