The meal at this Ethiopian dining room starts with bread. No, not spongy injera but moist, crusted slices from a house-made loaf studded with black cumin seeds. It’s the first sign of good things coming out of this open kitchen. The special kitfo (beef tartare) is warmed just right with spices and herbed butter, and the rib-eye tibs stay juicy with a gentle sear—a far cry from the toughened nubs at many competitors. Also good: Veggie combo; shiro wat(powdered-chickpea stew); atkilt alicha (garlicky cabbage and carrots).