Complimentary wedges of Grana Padano–dusted pizza dough set the mood at Bertrand Chemel’s sunny Italian place. Not all dishes are inexpensive, but portions are generous and it’s easy to leave satisfied on a budget. Go for crunchy calamari, a bountiful chopped salad, or eggplant Parmesan over twirls of spaghetti. We tend to refrain from loading toppings onto the Neapolitan pies and let clean flavors—buffalo mozzarella, basil—shine. Also good: Fried artichokes; meatballs and polenta; capricciosa pizza; diavola pizza; Negroni.