It feels like a nightly party at chef Enzo Algarme’s joint, which pays homage to the thin-crust pizza and friggatorie (fried food) of his hometown, Naples. Pies cooked in the wood-fired oven can feed two. Of the 20-plus topping combinations, we like simpler arrangements, such as the certified Margherita D.O.C. Bookend your meal with a frittura sampler (arancini, prosciutto croquettes) and fresh gelato—and don’t forget the Chianti. Also good: Arugula salad; sausage-and-onion pizza; eggplant Parmesan.