Stacked teapots lend a homey feel to the revamped dining room of this decades-old restaurant from new owner Kris Panngern, a Bangkok native. Thankfully, the lineup is still deliciously familiar. (That honey-basil duck isn’t going anywhere.) You can go whole hog on the menu—literally, we feasted on minced-pork salad with pig skin plus a pig-knuckle stew—but the kitchen delivers across the board. Also good: Squid salad; sour pork sausage; steamed dumplings; mango with sticky rice.