Stacked teapots lend a homey feel to the revamped dining room of this decades-old restaurant from new owner Kris Panngern, a Bangkok native. Thankfully, the lineup is still deliciously familiar. (That honey-basil duck isn’t going anywhere.) You can go whole hog on the menu—literally, we feasted on minced-pork salad with pig skin plus a pig-knuckle stew—but the kitchen delivers across the board. Also good: Squid salad; sour pork sausage; steamed dumplings; mango with sticky rice.
Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Petworth.
Anna Spiegel covers the dining and drinking scene in her native DC. Prior to joining Washingtonian in 2010, she attended the French Culinary Institute and Columbia University’s MFA program in New York, and held various cooking and writing positions in NYC and in St. John, US Virgin Islands.
Jessica Sidman covers the people and trends behind D.C.’s food and drink scene. Before joining Washingtonian in July 2016, she was Food Editor and Young & Hungry columnist at Washington City Paper. She is a Colorado native and University of Pennsylvania grad.
