We know—a standing-only restaurant sounds faddish. But think of Japanese tachinomiya bars, where patrons are packed shoulder to shoulder reveling in food and drink. Here, add reservations and more elbow room (the maximum capacity is 15) and you have Erik Bruner-Yang’s modern-Asian hideaway. Tucked inside an active kitchen at the Line hotel, diners at two communal tables watch chefs fry chicken-skin dumplings—best knocked back with a Suntory-whiskey highball—and grill kushiyaki skewers such as Camembert drizzled with fermented honey. It’s tempting to graze, but then you’d miss the standout large-format plates—especially the whole duck served with house-made tortillas, cucumbers, scallions, and a bevy of sauces. Expensive.