Until recently, diners queued up for more than an hour, hoping for one of the 24 stools at this Filipino dining room. (It now takes a limited number of reservations.) What awaits inside the plant-crammed place is a familial vibe, thanks to co-owner Genevieve Villamora; a lineup of funky wines and ciders; and Tom Cunanan’s thrummingly flavorful dishes. The menu changes all the time, but we recently reveled in a rice-flour tamale with lobster, plus a plate of hand-cut spaghetti crowned with dry-aged-beef sausages. And if you can’t snag a reservation, there’s one easy way to get in quickly: Eat by yourself at the single stool fronting the kitchen. Moderate.