Sometimes at the end of a meal, we play the “What’s the dish of the night?” game. At Jeremiah Langhorne’s Mid-Atlantic dining room, it’s just about impossible to pick only one. A fried-catfish slider might sound simple enough, but in Langhorne’s hands, the tiny sweet-potato-roll sandwich tastes transcendent. (Can we get six more?) Most everything is cooked in the giant hearth. (Check out the cooks fanning and raking the glowing embers.) Charred brassicas emerge draped in n’duja-stoked hollandaise and chimichurri, cornbread and chicken and dumplings are the best kind of comfort food, and lobster and grits had us scraping the edges of the bowl for every last bite. While scoring a reservation can be a game unto itself, the lovely downstairs wine bar takes plenty of walk-ins. Expensive.