If you haven’t been to this opulent French spot near the White House in a while, well, you’re in for a surprise. Pretty much everything but the burgundy decor has changed. Leading the revolution is wine expert Jennifer Knowles, who oversees the whole place with sass and smarts. Her hand-picked chef, Keith Bombaugh, is a fellow New Englander. His best dishes call that region to mind, whether with an ingredient (anything lobster is a fine bet) or a dish—such as the littleneck stuffies on the bar menu. Come dessert, it’s all about the Boston-cream-pie puffs. Very expensive.