Chef/owner Peter Pastan’s very personal ode to Italian food and wine has made an impressive comeback after a flood shuttered the restaurant for two months last year. Naples-style wood-oven pizzas and a roster of plates nodding to Pastan’s enthusiasms (tiny fish, say) make up the bulk of the menu. We took in such wonders as an astonishingly simple—and delicious—escarole salad, Sicilian anchovies with bread and butter, grilled mussels dabbed with romesco sauce, beef hearts with fennel, and even dry-aged steaks. The restaurant buys the whole animal, and the cuts are finished in that wood oven, which results in terrific char and chew. Moderate.