You’d expect to find a “slammable vodka cocktail” elsewhere in Adams Morgan—though maybe not one this tasty, with rooibos-infused vodka and bubbly. Three years in, it’s easy to tell that the Komi vets running this foodie haven are still having fun. The mood is infectious—we’ve never had a dull meal in the cozy space, whether tearing into a bowl of tagliatelle ragu with “porky” bread crumbs, delighting in family-style platters such as herb-and-rice-stuffed fish, or listening to ebullient beverage director Bill Jensen share his finds from a recent trip to the country of Georgia. Chef Jon Sybert’s style is strikingly savory—note the frequent pops of trout roe, house-made breads heaped with seaweed butter and fermented carrots, rosemary-strewn desserts—which plays to the palate in wonderful ways. Expensive.