“I cook what I like to eat” has become a refrain with chefs—and that can often translate to a muddled menu. But at Aphra and Sam Adkins’s bright kitchen, the eclecticism works. It helps that the lineup is concise and uniformly strong, whether you’re starting with a superb bourbon/pear-shrub cocktail and Peruvian potatoes with blue-cheese dip, sharing a tangy green-tomato salad with bacon vinaigrette and dill, or digging into a mole-drenched chicken thigh. Say yes to a homey wedge of oven-warm bread and butter—or go for brunch, when other fresh-baked indulgences abound. Moderate.