Meatballs are everywhere these days, but the ones at this intimate, modern-Italian dining room are standouts. New chef Loris Navone cribs from his Italian grandmother’s recipe, mixing ricotta into veal, pork, and beef. Mounded atop mascarpone-enriched polenta, the “appetizer” makes a small meal. Fritto misto is both airy and tender. (He poaches the seafood in buttermilk before frying.) Pastas such as rosemary tagliatelle with Bolognese and ricotta cavatelli with a lamb-and-kale ragout are wonderfully comforting. There are some surprises, too, including the black squid-ink bread hiding in the basket—it’s peak umami. Expensive.