José Andrés has become a public champion for immigration, and the restaurateur/humanitarian also embraces it on the plate. China Chilcano adds a modern spin to the Chinese and Japanese influences on Peruvian cuisine while also reimagining the country’s native criollo cooking. Dim sum and ceviche are two of the best sections on the menu, particularly for lamb pot stickers fused together with a lacy crust or octopus carpaccio with dollops of olive mayo. The colorful food is matched by the pulsing, neon-lit setting—and a bar that makes the area’s best Pisco sour. Moderate.