Returning to this wood-smoke-scented Italian spot in Bloomingdale feels as comforting as greeting an old friend. Chef Michael Friedman isn’t shy about playing the hits: toasts heaped with smoked-trout rillettes or truffle-honeyed ricotta, the fennel-sausage rigatoni everyone talks about, and crunchy hazelnut-maple custard. Branching out isn’t a bad idea, especially in the carb categories. (If you’re feeling virtuous, try the wood-grilled chicken.) That said, you’ll be happy following the regulars who hang at the bar with a hearty pour of Sangiovese and an off-menu bowl of cacio e pepe. Moderate.