Think of Michael Landrum’s steakhouse as, well, the anti-steakhouse. You won’t find stuffy servers, $15 sides, or New York strips requiring a Skadden Arps salary. Instead, it’s possible to enjoy an unpretentious steak dinner for two and a bottle of wine for less than $100—with complimentary mashed potatoes and creamed spinach. Ray’s favors less popular cuts, in which flavor trumps tenderness. And while a blackboard advertises the latest 60-day-aged prize, even a humble hanger steak is a treat. Just save room for the deviled-egg-style steak tartare to start and the Key-lime pie to finish. Moderate.