About Loren Glaser
Crisp-skinned roast pig, dramatically carved using the edge of a plate, is a marquee dish here that lives up to the spectacle. Same for other showy platters, such as roast goat and roast rabbit. (The twice-cooked Navarro potatoes that come on the side are as compelling as the meats.) But you can also venture down the tapas route at this sprawling Spanish place. There are traditional takes such as gambas al ajillo and steamed gooseneck barnacles—a delicacy in northwestern Spain—alongside creations like mushrooms with cured and shaved foie gras. Whichever direction you go, you’re in assured hands. Moderate.