Ikat pillows and modern Afghan paintings set the scene at these family-run restaurants, where familiar Afghan dishes are brighter and more complex than usual. We like to explore the menu by sharing platters. One dubbed hot mezze includes dumplings stuffed with savory beef and eggplant and fried turnovers with leeks and butternut squash. Another showcases a pile-up of lamb—tenderloin, shoulder, and rib chops—with raisin-studded basmati. Don’t miss the mantu and aushak—the meat- and leek-filled dumplings that call to mind freeform ravioli. Moderate.