100 Very Best 2020In a dining scene that’s churning fast, there’s a lot that’s comforting about returning to Peter Pastan’s bright, white-tiled pizzeria. The silky deviled eggs next to a pool of punchy green sauce, cockle-topped white pizza, and custardy vanilla ice cream are as alluring as they were when the place opened 18 years ago. Pay attention, though, to the long list of specials, filled with leisurely snacks like Sicilian anchovies with bread and butter and a slab of rustic “piggy” rillettes with pickles and whole-grain mustard. Moderate.
