Dining at chef Haidar Karoum’s window-walled New American restaurant is like revisiting old friends—many influences and signature dishes from his past two decades in top kitchens including Nora, Estadio, and Proof have gathered here. (Hello again, spice-roasted chicken.) That’s not to say anything feels tired—Karoum is a master of bright flavors and tight technique—and there are enticing new additions such as Utica greens smothered in hot cherry peppers, bacon, and garlicky bread crumbs. Don’t leave without trying the savory-sweet Manchego cheesecake. Expensive.