100 Very Best Restaurants: #4 – Komi

Foi gras with squash panisse


Ask plenty of industry insiders where they’d splurge and the answer isn’t someplace new or trendy—it’s this 16-year-old Mediterranean tasting room from omni­present owners chef Johnny Monis and Anne Marler. We love the serene dining space where you can nerd out with veteran sommelier Kyle Wilson over wild-foraged hard cider, swoon over cheffy bites like kanpachi crudo with bone gelée, and then gorge, Greek farmhouse–style, on savory finales such as crunchy-skinned suckling pig or lamb ribs, tzatziki, and just-baked pita. (Bonus: leftovers.) Thrills lean less on luxury ingredients and more on finesse—who knew a squash fritter could ring divine?—and the personal touch (e.g., housemade Greek pastas). While Komi has always eschewed trendiness—even social media—its sporadic new Happy Gyro pop-up, a whimsical monthlong vegetarian ode to the Greek-American diner fare of Monis’s childhood, was the most fun eating we had all year. Very expensive.