100 Very Best Restaurants: #42 – Maydan

Whole roasted chicken at Maydan. Photograph by Scott Suchman

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A blazing hearth for roasting meats and a playlist heavy on Middle Eastern hip-hop are just a couple things that set apart Rose Previte’s moodily lit Middle Eastern dining room. Reservations are still tough, so we arrive early and angle for a seat at the bar. Although the kitchen recently changed hands, it still has a way with vegetables, which shine in plates such as carrots with harissa or turnips with preserved lemon. And hearth-cooked meats like turmeric chicken and Syrian spiced lamb shoulder remain marvelous. Moderate.