José Andrés’s homage to his native Spain always delights and surprises. Order the elegant potato tortilla or olive-oil-slicked gambas al ajillo—longtime menu favorites—but also dabble in innovations such as caramelized onions sprinkled with Valdeón blue; “gin and tonic” oysters; and chorizo with cider sauce. Some items, like the Ferran Adrià–inspired liquid “olives,” call to mind Minibar, Andrés’s mightily ex-pensive tasting room. At Jaleo, they’re just $2.50 a pop. Moderate.
