Crabcakes have dwindled in popularity—not many of the city’s hottest restaurants pay them much attention. This fishmarket/bar/tavern makes a convincing case for keeping them around. The secret? Pure Maryland jumbo lump meat, plus a tiny bit of a binder that includes brioche and heavy cream. That’s about as fancy as it gets here, our favorite spot for picking summer crabs and gorging on simply steamed or fried seafood. Another must-order: the platter of house-smoked salmon, trout, and whitefish. Go for the big one, then revel in the leftovers. Moderate.