100 Very Best Restaurants: #8 – Bad Saint

Ginataang Tulya- clams, curry, rockfish, coconut milk

About

Teeny-tiny dining room aside, this modern Filipino destination goes big in every way. Robustly flavored plates fly from chef Tom Cunanan’s kitchen. We recently feasted on ceviche-like tuna kinilaw, sausage-and-crab-fat fried rice, and crackly-skinned duck. Drinks are delightfully varied, especially if you’re partial to offbeat bottles and vermouths. And generosity abounds, whether you’re swapping menu recommendations with new elbow buddies at the dining counters or being greeted by co-owner/host Genevieve Villamora. Don’t let the lack of a line fool you—Bad Saint is better than ever, and thanks to a smart hospitality move, it now takes reservations. Moderate.