No area chef is as fanatical about local sourcing as Spike Gjerde. You won’t even find citrus on his Line-hotel dining room’s menu unless it was grown in the Mid-Atlantic. That devotion means simple is often the best way to go—buttermilk biscuits with a trio of aged hams, say, or cornmeal-crusted fried chicken. On the drink menu, “pick your own apples” translates to choosing a local brandy or pommeau—whether you’re looking for bitter and herbal or sweet and fruity. Very expensive.