There’s much about Ann Cashion and John Fulchino’s 20-year-old restaurant that recalls a bygone era: savvy tie-clad servers; icy martinis and shellfish platters; and big appetizers like barbecue shrimp and grits or crab imperial. Entrées are about simple pleasures executed well, such as sautéed soft-shell crabs or grilled lobster with spoonbread. Expensive.
