Think of these Indian small-plates spots as Vikram Sunderam’s culinary labs. Though the chef has set the bar for upscale Indian dining with Rasika, it’s here that he’s at his most playful. Foggy Bottom has sandwiches (hello, fried chicken with beet chutney) and a bazaar-like feel, while the Cleveland Park location is serene. Both have tasty kathi rolls and shrimp bezule, green-chili-strewn nuggets that we scarf like popcorn. Moderate.