100 Very Best 2023Chef Henji Cheung channels his native Hong Kong at this jade-green-painted Columbia Heights gem, where scallion pancakes might be dressed up with caviar and tofu espuma, and chicken shu mai are plumped with foie gras. The modern plates are as visually arresting as they are delicious—take a vibrant tartare of tuna and tamari-marinated beets with nori crackers. Meanwhile, Cheung’s wife and co-owner, Sarah Thompson, curates a dynamic list of natural wines with fun descriptions, such as a Nebbiolo with notes of “McDonald’s black pepper packets, asphalt, red Starburst.” Moderate.
