100 Very Best Restaurants: #25 – Sumac

Photograph courtesy of Sumac.

About Sumac

cuisines
American

Hike to a tasting menu? We did just that to get to this wood-fired kitchen trailer, on the grounds of the Sperryville sour-beer destination Pen Druid Brewing. Hyper-local ingredients (sourced and foraged within 150 miles) match the wild-yeast beers and natural wines from DC’s Domestique—and can be enjoyed alfresco with Shenandoah vistas or in the taproom. Owners Abbey and Dan Gleason—alums of organic farms and fine restaurants—invent weekly changing menus, Friday through Sunday, during farming season (April through December), which emerge, astonishingly, from a 12-foot kitchen. We visited in summer for beef-tartare bao buns and charred-hiramasa aguachile, and returned eagerly in fall for rabbit cassoulet and winter-squash risotto. Graze à la carte or, better yet, feast in the field with a $105 prix fixe for two. Moderate.