100 Very Best 2023Where else do you get your own dedicated chef for the evening? The back-room omakase counter at this Japanese mainstay in Dupont seats just two parties a night—each with their own personal sushi master. A parade of warm dishes highlights rare and hyper-seasonal ingredients; think sun-dried sea-cucumber egg over a hairy-crab dumpling, or tempura shirako (cod milt). But the real wow moment is the display of wooden boxes filled with a stunning array of fish and seafood. Pick whatever you want—four types of uni? sure!—and watch your chef expertly turn it into sushi and sashimi. Very expensive.
