100 Very Best 2023Dozens of mirrored tiles shimmer in this bright, light teal-walled space, formerly the Oval Room. It’s a fitting stage set for modernized French fare, where gougères are jazzed up with Comté espuma and grilled octopus gets a drizzle of ’nduja vinaigrette. The winter menu stars dishes such as a tender coq au vin–inspired Cornish game hen and duck confit with Calvados, almonds, and olives. Dessert also shines, whether a dark-chocolate soufflé, buttery madeleines, or chocolate crémeux with pistachio-praline ice cream. Expensive.
