100 Very Best 2023The DC area doesn’t have much Malaysian food, but chef James Wozniuk shows what we’ve been missing out on. His Columbia Heights restaurant introduces first-timers to nasi lemak—Malaysia’s national dish—with fried chicken leg, coconut-pandan rice, sambal, crisp anchovies, cucumber, and a soft-boiled egg. Then it hooks them on curry mee noodle soup and spicy pineapple curry. Head to the downstairs sports bar, Thirsty Crow, for snackier fare such as beef-rendang croquetas, plus beer and cocktails. Moderate.
