100 Very Best 2023At this hotel dining room, Kevin Tien skillfully fuses Vietnamese cuisine with flavors from the American South. (The expert cocktails? They’re inspired by Taylor Swift.) Dig into noodles tossed with an umami-rich array of crawfish, miso, and crab fat, or shrimp-stuffed shu mai dumplings paired with grits, then build lettuce wraps from a family-style platter of lemongrass pork, fried shrimp, flatiron steak, and a bevy of herbs and accents. Pastry chef Susan Bae’s sweets are as tasty as they are colorful and inventive. Expensive.
