It’s been six years since Ray’s the Steaks—the beloved steakhouse from chef-owner Michael Landrum known for its affordable prices and unfussy vibe—closed in Arlington. But the place still looms large for Paul Taylor, co-owner of Shaw cocktail-and-sandwich shop Your Only Friend. The Arlington native was such a fan that he held his rehearsal dinner there in 2017, and he credits the steakhouse for informing his own style of hospitality. Now, with Landrum’s blessing and recipes, Taylor and co-owner Sherra Kurtz plan to pay homage to Ray’s the Steaks with a two-night pop-up on June 2 and 9. Ray’s Hell Burger will also make a comeback for late-night walk-ins on those dates.
Taylor used to work for Rhodeside Grill in the same neighborhood as Ray’s the Steaks. “We would walk over there, and there was that wonderful yellow legal pad that he had. You would just say, ‘I’d like a steak,’ and they’d say, ‘Okay, come back at 9,'” Taylor says. It was the first place he had a Malbec, and the site of many special occasion dinners.
Taylor got to know Landrum more personally when the restaurateur would frequent Rhodeside Grill. More recently, Taylor got an email from Landrum out of the blue to say how proud he was of Your Only Friend. They got to talking, and Taylor pitched the idea to bring back some Ray’s specials for a limited time. Without hesitation, Landrum handed over his recipes—and then some. Taylor says the interaction wasn’t so different from his rehearsal dinner; despite a limited, planned set menu Landrum ended up sending out everything he had. “It was very much the same thing,” he says. “It was like, ‘Yeah, maybe we’ll do a steak.’ It turned into ‘we’ll do the whole thing.'”
The $55 prix-fixe menu starts with parker house bialys and an assortment of canapés. You can also add on Ray’s famous sherry crab bisque for an extra $15. The main attraction is, of course, the steak. There are 10 options to choose from, including steak au poivre, picanha with chimichurri, boneless Delmonico with horseradish cream, and more. On the side: Ray’s mashed potatoes and creamed spinach. Expect a few extras thrown in too, such as peanut butter-chocolate “tiger butter” sweets.
Taylor and Kurtz are putting their own mark on the menu with a martini list. The four options ($16 each) include their signature “clean dirty” martini with clarified olive brine, a 50/50 gin martini, a Bamboo with fino sherry and blanc vermouth, and a gibson with lacto vidalia onion brine. There will also be a couple Les Lunes wines ($16 by the glass or $70 for a bottle).
Your Only Friend will begin taking reservation for the pop-up on Wednesday, May 28 at 10 AM. Email info@youronlyfrienddc.com for seatings at 5:30, 6, 7, and 7:30 PM on both dates.
Beginning at 9 PM, the menu will switch to an homage to Ray’s Hell Burger. There will be a classic hamburger, but also a special created by Landrum specifically for the pop-up. That one will come topped with a hatch chile pimento cheese, plus a Duke’s mayo-heavy special sauce. (Your Only Friend features a stained glass mural of Duke’s on its ceiling.)
Landrum, who left the DC area, is coy about what he’s up to now, telling Washingtonian via email that he’s been on “multifarious adventures in far-flung places.” And though he has no plans to bring Ray’s the Steaks back for real, he is excited about the pop-up: “One of the greatest memories from my time at Ray’s The Steaks is hosting Paul’s impossibly marvelous wedding celebration and his warm support throughout the years. Knowing that Paul and Sherra truly live up to the name of their fantastic shop for the whole DC community, I could not be happier to help make this exciting pop-up possible,” Landrum writes. “In these challenging times, we all need the spirit of community and good cheer that Your Only Friend brings—and a taste of steaks from a simpler time.”
Jessica Sidman covers the people and trends behind D.C.’s food and drink scene. Before joining Washingtonian in July 2016, she was Food Editor and Young & Hungry columnist at Washington City Paper. She is a Colorado native and University of Pennsylvania grad.
