100 Very Best Restaurants 2014: Corduroy

No. 16 on this year's list.
Tuna with hijiki and sushi rice. Photograph by Scott Suchman.

Tom Power’s quiet and understated Shaw restaurant stands out the same way a well-tailored jacket does. If his Modern American menu seldom changes, it’s because he’d rather win you over with consistency than with novelty.

His red-snapper bisque has such a deep, lingering flavor, it seems wrong to call it soup. His rendition of lumpia, a Filipino spring roll, might be the best fried food you’ll eat all year, if it weren’t for the fact that you might segue from that to the stellar soft-shell crabs. Wine reductions have disappeared from many menus, but Power reminds us what we’re missing when we drag a slice of crisped duck breast through one of his lustrously rich sauces. Note to the budget-minded: You can dine on the three-course prix fixe menu at the upstairs bar for $30—a steal.

Open: Monday through Saturday for dinner.

Don’t miss: Tuna tartare; tuna with sushi rice; roast and confit guinea hen; chocolate tart with banana; baked chocolate sabayon.

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