100 Very Best Restaurants 2014: Table

Sweetbreads braised kale, bacon, and onions at Table Restaurant, Washington, DC

Whitewashed and sparely appointed, Frederik de Pue’s bilevel Shaw spot is frenetic on the first floor, where busy cooks toil at a skinny, steaming open kitchen. Upstairs, guests lean across communal tables in a far more serene environment—the better choice when intimate conversation is on the agenda. The handwritten menu is ever-changing, but hope that your night’s options include chubby escargot ravioli served with crispy-sweet stuffed zucchini blossoms and a lovely ratatouille coulis, or impossibly tender veal sweetbreads with braised kale, onions, bacon, and potato.

Open: Monday through Saturday for dinner, Sunday for brunch and dinner.

Don’t Miss: Duck rillettes; stuffed squid with piperade, sweet-chard pesto, and prosciutto; ricotta fritters with orange-blossom honey.

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