The name only sounds as if it were invented by the writer/fantasist Karel Čapek. It actually stands for Russian Uzbek. Though properly speaking, the menu tilts much more Uz than Rus, with a special emphasis on all the wondrous things that cooks in that wintry part of the world do with dough.
Working from scratch every day, chef/owner Bakhitiyor Rakhmatulleav produces terrific meat pies (at least one samsa, pirozhki, and chebureki should be on the table at every meal) and stuffed dumplings, including the centerpiece dish called manti—small, bulging pillows filled with peppery lamb and doused with yogurt.
Service is sometimes more gruff than gracious, and atmosphere is nonexistent unless the tables are full. But the cooking oozes soul, and every meal is a generous feast.
- Smoked-fish tray
- “Fish under coat” (a layering of herring, carrots, and beets)
- Pelmeni (ground-beef dumplings)
- Chicken Kiev
- Rice pilaf with lamb, raisins, and carrots.