The slick interior is a set piece of LA cool. But has style superseded substance? A recent visit was marred by sloppy execution, beginning with a crab cake so flavorless that it might have been a chicken patty and ending with a plate of monkfish so uninspired as to engender fantasies of a burger from Houston’s across the street. Janelle Birdsall’s desserts were excellent. Too bad she recently left the restaurant.
This review appeared in the August, 2008 issue of The Washingtonian.
Executive Food Editor/Critic
Ann Limpert joined Washingtonian in late 2003. She was previously an editorial assistant at Entertainment Weekly and a cook in New York restaurant kitchens, and she is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education. She lives in Petworth.
