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May 2001: Athena Pallas

The name may be different, but the olive-oil-scented Greek cooking is the same as it ever was. Formerly Crystal Pallas, this cozy neighborhood restaurant with its flower-filled deck is the place to sip ouzo and nibble on Greek starters-salty fried kasseri cheese; tzatziki, a garlicky cucumber dip; taramasalata, made from fish roe; and Macedonian red peppers tossed with feta. Then move on to lusty main courses like moussaka, lamb shanks, or simple whole grilled snapper or sea bream with olive oil and lemon. Finish with thick creamy yogurt drizzled with Greek honey and walnuts, or the sublimely flaky baklava. This home away from home also serves up homey diner fare.

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